This season, the designer Chiyue Dai draws on a story that is both personal and cultural— a reflection on dockland life through the lens of memory, heritage, and transformation.

The collection is inspired by memories of Chiyue’s mother, one of the first women in 1990s Shanghai’s international trade. As a child, Chiyue joined her at the port, absorbing stories of shipping routes, foreign goods, and whispers of modern piracy.

This collection bridges Shanghai and London, two port cities shaped by their docks. Inspired by 1930s Shanghai’s contrasts—where elegance met grit—it features Chinese and tropical florals, cargo pants, Victorian silhouettes, and sailor tailoring. It touches on the intrigue and the two worlds that the Shanghai dockland was merging: the developing emerging world of architecture, business and fashion and the dark side of slaves, brothels, opiums and pirates. 

Delicate designs set reference to sex workers’ pyjama uniforms, while luxurious touches evoke the faded opulence of opium dens, capturing a complex, layered cityscape.

The collection balances elegance and grit, blending Victorian curves with Chinese flat-pattern cutting to create space between body and fabric—resulting in deeply emotional, layered pieces rooted in history and personal narrative. 

Photographer: Chris Yates @chrisyates

Images provided by PR Agency: I.DEA PR