Blumarine by David Koma AW26 – Milan Fashion Week

The Blumarine AW26 Collection paints a portrait of the mythological diva and her many facets through the lens of its own history. David Koma revisits Venice and by blending its baroque opulence and his own sculptural modernism and ornamentation, the Creative Director mirrors the city in the diva herself. Colour palette is glamorous and darkly theatrical in red, black, white, silver and gold.

A diva-ish wardrobe takes shape in operatic garments cut with both drama and ease. Blumarine’s emblematic rose takes centre stage. It appears in a red and black print and as a black and white motif emblazoned on taffeta beetle-back capes and balloon-skirt mini dresses. A textural, colourful rose embroidery wraps around a sculpted black vinyl bomber jacket. 

A rose embroidery in silver metallises a black Chantilly lace dress, while a gold georgette lamé mini dress is wreathed in plissé soleil rosettes and rose garlands.

Darkly romantic rose petals appear as garlands and ruffles. Sculpted black and red knitted cardigans are festooned with three-dimensional knitted strands of rose petals, which echo in a red crochet over-embroidered mini dress with rose cut-outs and rose appliqué.
Evoked in goat hair, the Harlequin diamond pattern named after the Commedia dell’Arte character animates a black and white beetle-back cape with a big bow. Splicing baroque ornamentation with the metal hardware characteristic of David Koma’s practice, the cameo buttons of jackets expand into latticed cages worn over denim trousers and harnesses worn as tops.They further appear in long and short layered gold metal necklaces alongside crosses and crystal-encrusted bows, and in chokers, rings and earrings

Frayed petal ruffles adorn crinoline and tier crepon dresses and Chantilly lace tops and trousers. They further embellish the ruff and cuffs of a black bonded crêpe cady mini-skirt suit with baroque cameo buttons in metal and enamel crafted in the images of Blumarine’s rose, butterfly and B logo, as well as the lion of Venice. The same buttons bejewel white and black scuba mini-skirt suits with boned jackets cut in the memory of Harlequin’s silhouette with hand-embroidered macramé collars and cuffs.

Black and red sling-back pointed pumps in leather or satin are armoured with metal toe-caps and bejewelled crosses.

CREATIVE DIRECTION David Koma
STYLING Marc Goehring
SET DESIGN Tom Schneider
HAIR Claire Grech for L’Oréal Professionel Paris
MAKE UP Patrick Glatthaar for Make Up For Ever
MOVEMENT DIRECTION Ryan Chappell
SOUNDTRACK Mode-F
PRODUCTION Without Production

Images provided by pr agency Reference Studios



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